Newsletter Articles
Choosing Sod in SoCal: Marathon 1 vs 2 vs 3 Guide
Marathon is Southern California’s most popular lawn sod, a dwarf tall fescue sold in three grades, so choosing sod here usually comes down to Marathon 1 vs 2 vs 3. In short: Marathon I is the toughest and most shade tolerant for heavy use, Marathon II is the balanced, most popular all-rounder, and Marathon III has the slowest growth and the most manicured look. The right choice depends on how much shade, foot traffic, and mowing you want.[1]
Quick answer: Pick Marathon I for a tough family-and-pet lawn or shadier yards (it tolerates up to 40 percent shade). Pick Marathon II for the best all-around balance of looks and easy care (up to 25 percent shade). Pick Marathon III when you want the most manicured, carpet-like lawn and are willing to trade some durability.
Below we compare the three Marathon grades, explain what sod is and why to use it, how to choose the right sod for your Southern California property, the main turf types for our climate, and how to lay and water a new lawn.
Marathon Grass 1 vs 2 vs 3: Which Should You Choose?
Marathon is a dwarf tall fescue grown by Southland Sod Farms. The maker describes the three grades as a progression: the Roman numerals II and III represent slower growth and improved appearance over the original Marathon. Marathon III offers the most manicured look and the slowest growth, while Marathon II falls between I and III.[3] You will also see these grades written as Marathon 1, 2, and 3.
| Feature | Marathon I | Marathon II | Marathon III |
|---|---|---|---|
| Texture | Coarse | Medium, finer than I | Finest, most manicured |
| Mowing height | 2 to 3 in | 1.5 to 3 in | 1.5 to 2.5 in |
| Shade tolerance | Up to 40 percent | Up to 25 percent | Not rated by the maker |
| Growth rate | Fastest | Moderate | Slowest |
| Durability | Most durable | Good | Looks over wear |
| Best for | Heavy family and pet use, shadier yards | Balanced, easy-care home lawns | Manicured showcase lawns |
Marathon I (original) is the coarsest and fastest growing, recovers from wear the quickest, and tolerates the most shade (up to 40 percent), so it is the choice where daily family and pet traffic matter most.[1] Marathon II is a finer, denser dwarf tall fescue and the most popular choice among Southern California homeowners, striking a balance of good looks and easy care while tolerating up to 25 percent shade.[2] Marathon III grows the slowest, so it needs mowing less often and keeps the most carpet-like, manicured look; choose it when appearance matters more than maximum durability.[4] Southland does not publish a shade rating for Marathon III, so for shadier yards Marathon I remains the safer choice.
What Is Sod and Why Choose It?
Sod is mature turfgrass grown on a farm and harvested in rolls with its roots and a thin layer of soil, so it gives you a complete, established lawn the day it is laid. Seed, by contrast, has to germinate and fill in over a much longer period. Laid sod roots into the soil in about 10 to 14 days, which quickly knits the surface together and helps protect the soil from erosion.[10] For cool-season grasses like tall fescue, the best time to lay sod is early fall or early spring, and it is best to avoid very hot or very cold weather.[8]
How to Choose the Right Sod for Your SoCal Property
University of California turf specialists frame the choice around a few tolerances: heat, cold, drought, shade, salinity, and wear.[5] For a Southern California yard, that comes down to four practical questions:
- How much shade does the area get? More shade favors a tall fescue like Marathon I (up to 40 percent shade) or a shade-tolerant warm-season grass.
- How hard will the lawn be used? Kids, pets, and play call for a durable, fast-recovering grass.
- What is your water budget? Cool-season fescues stay green year-round but use more water; warm-season grasses use less but go dormant in winter.
- Does a winter-green look matter? If yes, lean tall fescue; if you can accept winter dormancy, a warm-season grass saves water.
Sod Types for Southern California
Three turf types cover most Southern California lawns, and UC rates their tolerances as follows:[5]
- Tall fescue (the Marathon grasses): a cool-season grass that stays green through mild winters and tolerates sun to part shade, with moderate-to-high heat tolerance, but it needs more water than warm-season grasses.[6]
- Bermudagrass: a warm-season grass that loves full sun and heat, tolerates drought and heavy traffic, and needs the least water, but it browns and goes dormant in the cooler months and does poorly in shade.[7]
- St. Augustinegrass: a warm-season grass with the best shade tolerance of the three, good heat and salinity tolerance, and moderate drought and wear tolerance, which makes it a pick for shadier coastal lawns.[5]
A simple rule: full sun with heavy traffic and a tight water budget points to bermudagrass; a shadier yard points to St. Augustine or Marathon I; and a year-round-green lawn in sun to part shade points to a tall fescue like Marathon.
How to Lay and Water New Sod
Good preparation is most of the job:[9]
- Prep the soil. Clear debris, grade a gentle 1 to 2 percent slope away from the house, break up clods, work in amendments and a starter fertilizer, then rake the surface firm and level and water it to settle for about a week before laying.
- Lay it like bricks. Start along a straight line and set the rolls with staggered ends, kneeling on a board so you do not dent the soil or sod. Roll the finished lawn right away for good soil contact.[10]
- Water to root it in. Keep new sod moist, watering daily for the first couple of weeks (and two or three times a day in hot weather), with a deeper soak every second or third day so the soil is moist to about 6 inches. Once rooted, taper to about twice a week, and avoid watering in the evening.[11]
- Stay off it. Keep foot traffic off the new lawn for the first couple of weeks so the roots can establish without being crushed.
Not sure which sod fits your yard? Visit any Green Thumb Nursery location and our team will help you match the right Marathon grade or turf type to your sun, traffic, and water needs, and send you home with everything you need to lay it right.
Sod and Marathon Grass FAQ
What is the difference between Marathon 1, 2, and 3?
All three are dwarf tall fescue from Southland Sod Farms. Marathon I is the coarsest, toughest, and fastest growing with the most shade tolerance (up to 40 percent); Marathon II is finer, denser, and the most popular balanced choice (up to 25 percent shade); and Marathon III grows the slowest and gives the most manicured, carpet-like look.[1]
Which Marathon grass is best for shade?
Marathon I tolerates the most shade of the three, up to about 40 percent, so it is the best Marathon choice for yards that do not get full sun.[1]
Is sod better than seed?
Sod gives you a complete, established lawn the day it is laid and roots in about 10 to 14 days, while seed must germinate and fill in over a much longer period. Sod costs more up front but delivers an instant, erosion-resistant lawn.[10]
How often should you water new sod?
Water daily for the first couple of weeks (two or three times a day in hot weather) with a deeper soak every second or third day, then taper to about twice a week once the sod has rooted. Avoid watering in the evening.[11]
What is the best sod for Southern California?
For a year-round-green lawn in sun to part shade, a tall fescue like Marathon is the popular pick. For full sun with low water and heavy traffic, bermudagrass is better, and for shadier spots St. Augustinegrass tolerates shade best.[5]
What sod uses the least water?
Among common Southern California turfgrasses, bermudagrass has the highest drought tolerance and needs the least water, though it browns in winter and needs full sun.[7]
How much Marathon sod do I need, and what does it cost?
Marathon sod is sold in rolls that cover about 5 square feet each, with roughly 500 square feet per pallet, so divide your lawn area by 5 to estimate rolls and add about 10 percent for trimming and curves. Prices vary by grade and season, so check current pricing at your local Green Thumb Nursery.[2]
Sources
- Southland Sod Farms, Choose the Right Marathon: sod.com
- Southland Sod Farms, Marathon II Sod: sod.com
- Southland Sod Farms, Lawn Care FAQ: sod.com
- Southland Sod Farms, Lawn Care Mowing: sod.com
- UC IPM, Turf Adaptations and Tolerances: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Tall Fescue: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Bermudagrass: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Establishing a Lawn from Sod: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Soil Preparation: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Installing Sod: ipm.ucanr.edu
- UC IPM, Irrigating New Lawns: ipm.ucanr.edu
Written by Susan B.
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